“To me, food is as much about the moment, the occasion, the location and the company as it is about the taste”. Heston Blumenthal (British Chef and TV personality)
It all began in the 19th century, when the Parsi immigrants, i.e, the Persian Zoroastrians from Persia (present-day Iran) had migrated to India, (then British India) in order to flee religious prosecution and had begun settling in cities like present day Mumbai, Hyderabad etc.
Since then, they have blended into the Indian society like “sugar in milk”, by actively contributing to the development of the society.
One of the most vital contributions by the Parsi people has been the introduction of the Irani cuisine in India by blending in their Persian culture and their culinary secrets with local Indian flavours and ingredients, thereby giving rise to the iconic Irani cafes in India across multiple cities like Mumbai, Pune and Hyderabad.
In the Dhobi Talao locality of Mumbai began India’s first-ever Irani tea shop that was started in the early 19th century by a Zoroastrian named Khodadad Oshtori, whereas currently the longest running Irani café in India is Kyani & Co that was established in the year 1904, again in Mumbai’s Dhobi Talao.
By blending in the aspects of nostalgia, taste and tradition, the Irani cafes were slowly and steadily turning into a popular eating hub, by welcoming people from all walks of life across multiple professions like students, workers, artists and intellectuals etc. into a sweet and simple space that is filled with wooden counters, checkered floors, antique furniture, high ceilings and huge glass jars containing cookies and biscuits etc.
Irani cafes serve a unique blend of both Indian and Iranian cuisine with a homely taste and affordable rates with iconic dishes like the Irani Chai (a sweet milk tea), Bun Maska (buns blended in the taste of butter, sugar and tutti-frutti), Kheema pav (minced meat with bread) Nankhatai (shortbread biscuits), Akuri (a breakfast staple made out of scrambled eggs and spices) and Berry Pulao (a rice dish made with cranberries and saffron) etc.
In case you are ever wondering what gives them a unique taste? Here is the secret. The Parsis primarily use a blend of various ingredients like cinnamon, saffron, jaggery, cider vinegar, dried red chilli and coconut milk etc, which not only makes their food delicious but also constantly makes people crave more of it every single time they have it.
If you are ever planning to grab a quick taste of authentic Irani cuisine in Mumbai, then here are some of the most iconic Irani cafes you must visit in the city.
1) Kyaani & Co
As discussed previously, this is the oldest Irani café to exist in the city of Mumbai in the locality of Dhobi Talao, Marine Lines, was founded by Khodram Marezban in the year 1904. Some of their most iconic dishes which you must try include Chicken Salami Sandwich, Irani Chai, Bun Maska, Chicken Irani Kebab, Raspberry Drink, Rum Ball and Mutton Kheema Salli etc.
2) Britania & Co. Restaurant
This iconic café was established more than 100 years ago, in the year 1923 in the Fort area of Mumbai, by the Late Rashid Kohinoor, which soon became a symbol of Parsi cuisine in no time. If you ever come across this place, you must try their Berry Pulao, Sali Boti, Dhansak and Caramel Custard and Fry Bombay Duck for sure.
3) Café Irani Chaii
Located in the locality of Mahim West in Mumbai, the Café Irani Chaii was established in the year 2017 by Mansoor Showghi Yezdi, who also happens to be a filmmaker apart from being a café owner. Some of their popular dishes include the iconic Pallonji Raspberry Soda, Chicken Keema, Bun Maska, Irani Chai, Chicken Cheese Omlette and Honey Toast etc.
4) Yazdani Restaurant and Bakery
Started in the year 1953 by the Irani baker Late Zend Meherwan Zend, the Yazdani Restaurant and Bakery is located in the Fort area of Mumbai, and is currently serving as a take-out only establishment. In this café, the bread till date is prepared by hand in a wood fire oven. It serves several delicacies which include Bun Maska, Apple Cinnamon Pie, Bread Pudding, Mawa Cake, Maska Pav and Carrot Cake etc.
In today’s day and age, while modern and aesthetic cafes and restaurants might be considered popular and Instagram worthy, they can no matter what, never really match up to the simple, timeless and old-world charm of the Irani cafes, which not only offer great food at affordable rates, but, also feel like a warm hug from our loved ones.
